Information / Tips

FAQ

1. Why do we spay/neuter early, and does it cause any medical problems?
We spay/neuter kittens as early as eight weeks of age. By spaying and neutering cats prior to sexual maturity, certain types of cancers may be prevented, along with many behavioral problems. With up to 14 million cats and dogs euthanized each year in the United States, we want to make a difference in pet over-population.

2. Where do we find our cats/kittens in need of rescue?
OCARC rescues cats and kittens predominantly from Corona Animal Shelter. Often kittens less than two pounds or eight weeks old are brought into the shelter and are too young to be put up for adoption. OCARC has a special arrangement with the shelter, allowing us to take in these tiny kittens and place them with one of our foster families until they are old enough for spay/ neuter and adoption. In addition, we also rescue many pregnant cats, cats with newborns, and adults that are in desperate need of homes. With the help and care of our dedicated volunteers, we are able to save the lives of many animals.

3. Why don’t we adopt kittens to families with very young children?
Kittens are easily frightened or startled. They can bite or scratch instinctively without meaning to hurt a child. Young children are often impulsive and rough with a helpless animal and can cause unintended injury. Often kittens raised with small children become skittish and less affectionate.

4. What is the adoption procedure?

To adopt a pet from us, we require that you:

• Complete the Adoption Application Form
• Meet the age requirement of 21 years or older
• Provide a valid photo ID
• Verify with your landlord that you may have a pet
• Interview with an adoption counselor
• Understand that we reserve the right to deny the adoption for any reason

We will make recommendations so that you and your family can have the best possible adoption experience. Be sure you are ready to make a commitment for the next 20 years.

Make the Transition Easier for Your New Companion

Cats often find a sudden change in their surroundings frightening. Keep in mind that regardless of how comfortable and cat-friendly you make your home, it will take several days, weeks or even months for your adopted cat to acclimate to his new home. Introducing the kitty to the Existing Resident Cat (ERC) or to other family members is all strange and new, and may take some time.

Benefits of Using this Method to Acclimate Your New Cat
By following the steps below, the new cat becomes familiar with new sounds, smells and people in a confined area, which serves as a comfort zone. This area will continue to be comforting to the cat later in life if she becomes frightened. From here, you can observe what your new kitty likes in regards to toys, petting and grooming. Plus it gives you a chance to see how much she is eating, whether the cat is using the litter pan for the first week and to observe her general behavior. The new kitty can bond with you without interference from the ERC or other people. Take your time and allow the cat to progress at her own pace. It is well worth the time spent! And remember, this could take a few days, weeks or even months. Just don’t get discouraged.

The First Few Days
Prepare a room for the new kitty before you bring him home. This is where he will spend three to eight days getting to know you and your family. Provide food, water, litter pan, a few toys, a scratching post and a cat bed. The bed can be an old comforter folded for a place to snuggle, an old sweatshirt, or a couple of folded, thick towels. Give the kitty some toys such as balls with bells, catnip-filled goodies and furry mice. Also provide a couple of feather toys placed out of the cat’s reach — these come in handy if the kitty becomes frightened and hides under a piece of furniture. Cats usually can’t resist being lured out with a feather toy.

Here is a video that may be helpful with introductions:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzYtF2FJRcg&feature=youtu.be

Day One:
When you bring your new kitty home, take him to his room. Place the carrier near the litter pan — this is a reference point he needs to recognize immediately. Open the door to the carrier and let him come out when he is comfortable. Some cats venture out immediately, tail waving up, looking around ready to explore. Others will slink out, and hide under something. That’s okay. Simpy talk softly to the kitty, put food in the dish and leave him alone for a while to listen to the new noises and smell the different smells in your home. Go in several times during the first day. The new cat may not run up to you, so please don’t be disappointed. He out of his familiar territory. The best way to handle it is to go into the room, sit down, watch TV or read a book, and talk to the the cat. He may or may not come out. If he does, that shows he will probably not need the full eight days in the room.

Days Two and Three:
Follow the same routine. Go in the room, give fresh food and water and scoop the litter pan. By now, the kitty should have nibbled on the food and used the litter pan. Some cats wait 24 hours; others do these things right away. Get down on the floor and entice him to play (this is where the feather toys come in handy.)

Note if any of the cat toys have been moved or if anything else in the room has been disturbed. If so, it means that she has been exploring. We cannot emphasize enough how much patience and understanding may be needed during the first two weeks with a new kitty. An older adult cat may require much more time and patience.

Day Four:
This time, pick up your new kitty and open the door to the room. Allow the ERC, if you have one, to enter the room while you and the new cat walk out and then close the door. Allow an hour or so for the ERC to sniff and investigate where the new cat has been. During this time, take the new kitty to the ERC’s litter pan (another reference point) and allow her to explore at her own pace from there. Then, exchange the new cat and the ERC again. Repeat this for up to two more days. The new cat should become more and more comfortable, and this is the best way to prevent the ERC from taking offense that another creature has moved in.

Enter the new cat’s room and spend some time playing with her. When you exit the room, leave the door open. For a few more days, leave the new kitty’s litter pan and dishes in the room, and then remove them. The cat should be using pans in both locations at this point and should not mind the removal of her pan.

Provide a Secure Place for your Curious Kitty

Ensure a safe home for your new explorer by following the simple suggestions below:

1. Look before you step.

2. Locate your kitten before you sit down on the sofa or use the recliner.

3. Close the lids and doors of washing machines, tumble dryers, dishwashers and ovens (and double check that your kitten is not in any of these before turning on)

4. Closely supervise your kitten when the stove burners are hot.

5. Store bleach, cleaners, human medications, vitamins and other chemicals toxic to felines in a location your kitten can’t reach (and in containers your kitten cannot open).

6. Leave no kitten unattended when the bathtub is full.

7. Keep the toilet seat down to prevent your kitten from drowning or from drinking from the bowl.

8.Cover all electrical cords with rubber tubes or sticky tape, or spray with citrus juice or Bitter Apple to keep your kitten from chewing on them.

9. Place toxic plants in a closed-off room, hang them out of reach, or remove them from the house completely.

10. Keep string and yarn well out of your kitten’s reach.

11. Stash sewing materials such as buttons, needles and pins in a secure spot.

12. Keep windows closed or outfitted with securely fitted screens, and screen in upper level patio or balcony decks.

13. Tie up window-shade pulls so they’re well out of your kitten’s reach.

14. Do not use clumping litter — scoopable (clumping) litter can be ingested by kittens.

15. Close or block off access to open motors and small spaces behind appliances or cabinets.

16. Store plastic bags where your cat cant reach them. Cats can get inside the bags and suffocate or chew them and swallow bits of plastic.

17. Cut plastic six-pack beverage holders apart to prevent your cat from getting tangled in them.

Remember: these safety suggestions pertain to both kittens and adult cats.

Information obtained from Catnip Newsletter, Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine


Find a New Home for Your Pet

We do not accept owner relinquished animals unless they were adopted from our rescue group. If you adopted from another rescue, please contact them as they may have the same policy and may be able to help you. However there is a great new tool where you can list your pet on Adopt-A-Pet yourself and find him/her a new home: rehome.adoptapet.com

Or if you don’t want to do that, please read the following article for suggestions to help you.  How to Find Homes for Pets

Spay and Neuter

OCARC is seriously committed to preventing the problem of pet over-population by spaying and neutering all animals that we put up for adoption. We make referrals to low cost veterinarians. Please call our voice mail (949-451-3272) for further information. Help us cut down the rate of unwanted pets born every year by spaying and neutering your pets.

Toxic Plants

The information contained in this list was obtained from the National ASPCA web site. It is not all-inclusive, but it is a compilation of the most frequently encountered indoor and outdoor plants. For a complete list, click here: toxic plants.

Toxic Foods

Some food and drink items that you consider tasty treats may be dangerous for your pet. As tempting as it might be to share your food or drink with your four-legged friend, please resist! Some of the more hazardous edible items include:

Alcoholic drinks and food products containing alcohol
Avocado (only mildly toxic to dogs and cats, but can be severely toxic, even deadly, to birds, rabbits, horses)
Caffeine (found in a lot of drinks such as coffee, tea, soda, and energy drinks)
Chocolate
Fatty foods
Garlic
Grapes and raisins
Macadamia nuts
Marijuana
Onions
Salt
Tobacco products (including e-cigarettes and their refills)
Xylitol (a sweetener found in products such as some sugar-free chewing gum, sugar-free candy, cough syrup, mouthwash, and toothpaste)
Yeast products (like raw bread dough)

While not necessarily toxic, some food items can cause a gastrointestinal obstruction (a blockage in the digestive tract) if your pet swallows them. For example, avocado pits, corn cobs, and bones can get stuck in your pet’s esophagus, stomach, or intestines.

Fruit pits in the Prunus genus of trees and shrubs, which includes cherries, nectarines, peaches, and plums, contain cyanide, but cyanide poisoning is rare unless your pet eats a lot of pits and chews them up. The pits must be crushed or ground up to release the cyanide. A gastrointestinal obstruction is the bigger risk for dogs and cats that eat these fruit pits.

While not edible themselves, food bags, especially the mylar-type potato chip bags, cereal bags, and snack bags, can be a danger for pets. Dogs are typically more likely than cats to sniff out food bags. These bags are thin enough that if your dog puts his head far enough into one and breathes in, the bag can wrap around his nose and mouth, suffocating him. The more your dog breathes in, the tighter the bag gets around his face. He can’t easily pull the bag off with his paws because it’s tightly stuck to his face, like shrink wrap.

Orange County Local Veterinary Services that we use:

Camino Pet Hospital
5408 Walnut Ave #C
Irvine, CA 92604
949.559.1404
caminopethospital.com

Villa Park Animal Hospital
17859 Santiago Blvd. Suite A
Villa Park, CA 92861
714.998.4322
villaparkanimalclinic.com

Alona Animal Hospital
1745 W 17th St.
Santa Ana, CA 92706
714.542.4107
alonavet.com

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8 Tips for Making an Outdoor Cat an Indoor Cat

It’s a big, bad world out there for small pets, in Orange County we have so many coyotes and other dangers outside. If you have a cat that is used to being outside, making him/her an indoor cat can be a challenging transition for some felines. While it isn’t a sure thing for all cats, here are some tips for helping your cat adjust.

1. Spend Time and Play With Your Cat
Your cat needs to burn off a lot of energy so set aside time to spend time with him and encourage play, such as a feather tied to a string.

2. Safe Haven
Cats need a safe place to go when they feel frightened. You need to ensure your new indoor cat has a place where he feels safe. Cardboard boxes are a great places for this.

3. Secure Your Home
Your former outdoor cat will return to outside if he can. Make sure to secure all of your windows and doors. Tell family members and guests that the kitty isn’t allowed outside and might try to bolt.

4. Cat Containment System
You can allow your indoor cat access to outside with a cat containment system that keeps them in the yard, on a deck or on a balcony.

5. Toy Selection
Cats are smart and get bored quickly. To keep your kitty from tearing up your personal items, you want to change out his cat toys frequently.

6. Scratching Posts and Activity Trees
Outside, your cat keeps his sharp nails short by scratching trees and other surfaces. Providing a scratching post gives your feline a place to do that inside and saves your furniture. Also, activity trees give your kitty a place to climb and burn off energy.

7. Litter Tray Placement

Litter is the place where your cat relieves himself. You want to keep the litter pan away from places where you cook, prepare or serve food.

8. Check Your Plants and Plant Cat Grass
Cats enjoy munching on some greenery; however, there are plant varieties that are toxic for your feline friend. Remove all toxic plants in your home and plant cat grass.